FW25! Jacquemus, menswear and haute couture

Some of the brands showing at Copenhagen Fashion Week are now available to view on the Vogue Runway app, and it’s exciting to see other fashion weeks gaining more visibility on a global stage. Al photography courtesy of Vogue, as per usual.

Jacquemus

For those who don’t know, Jacquemus has shown on its own schedule for the past 5 years. However, this year, Simon decided to return to the usual PFW schedule for the Spring 25 collection La Croisière (The Cruise) and wow, what a return it was. The collection was partially an ode to silhouettes of previous Jacquemus eras, including fun structural gowns, but there was also an air of Old Hollywood mystique. I loved the 40s and 50s silhouettes and formulas seen in a few looks, with large A-line skirts and long gloves. It was nostalgic yet kissed with a Jacquemus twist.

Menswear

This season felt very flightsuit/ski heavy. A lot of apocalyptic-esque ensembles in what I believe we’re supposed to be interpreting as mild political and climate commentary. The Louis Vuitton show was very commercial, and I think it’ll sell well, but I didn’t love it. A lot of the print heavy ensembles just didn’t work for me. The Prada show also didn’t wow me on first look, but the more I’ve sat with it, the more its grown on me. Honorable mentions go to Saint Laurent and Emporio Armani.

Willy Chavarria: By far, the “winner” of menswear this season. I knew it would be good, but he delivered far and above whatever expectations I had. Over exaggerated collars, wide shoulders, rosary in hand, unapologetically Chicano. The green oversized velvet suit? DELICIOUS. The use of Latino celebrities, who I couldn’t even recognize because the makeup had them all beautifully transformed as a part of the Willy Chavarria world, was a fantastic touch.

KidSuper: Colm’s origins in streetwear are very apparent in this collection. I think this is definitely one of the more cohesive collections from KidSuper, and I think it has potential to be one of the more commercially successful collections. Of course, there is no creative expense spared, and Colm always finds a way to bring his otherworldly visions to life.

Dolce&Gabanna: Sue me, I like a couple of the looks. As I stated on my close friends, I hate when a brand I like gives a couple of good looks but alas, I’ll give D&G a little credit.

Amiri: At first, the slightly larger blazers with skinny suit pants were really throwing me off, but I kind of got used to them by the end of it. I really like this collection! Heavily 70s inspired. There are some fun printed blazers, cool suede and velvet jackets, these bedazzled-looking ties that I love- a little something for everyone. There’s a lot of glitz and glitter for a menswear collection which I deeply appreciate. If men are going to keep wearing suits on red carpets, at least let them have some visual interest!

Hermès: There were a couple looks where I was thinking, do I want the clothing, or do I want the model? Regardless, I truly did enjoy this collection.